Caerphilly cheese. Have you heard of it? Welsh in origin, it’s one of the lesser known British Isle cheeses–at least here in the States. I had my first bite in the 2010s while attending a cheese science conference in Somerset, England. Somerset is a prime dairying area in South West England. In fact the conference was held at the family home of Jamie Montgomery right next to the well-known and very delicious Montgomery Cheddar company. At the time, I’d heard and written about Caerphilly, but never tasted a real British one. (Interestingly, Somerset is where two of the best known Caerphilly makers, Duckett’s (pictured above) and Gorwydd Caerphilly, are made. Although, the Trethowan brothers, who developed Gorwydd, did so on their family farm in Wales before relocating production to England.

Named after the town of Caerphilly (Caerffili) in the south of Wales (about 70 miles north of Somerset), the cheese has a fascinating history. I learned much that I didn’t know by reading Ned Palmer’s terrific book A Cheesemonger’s History of the British Isles. I bought two of his books after sadly having to miss a lovely dinner and guided tasting arranged by our mutual friend, Tahnoon Pasha, during our July trip to the UK. (Those of you who got, and read, last month’s newsletter know we had to fly home early from our Wales and England adventure for Vern’s mom’s last few days.)

But back to THE CHEESE! Like many cheeses, the history is a bit murky as to what the standard of identity for Caerphilly is. According to Ned, one UK expert adamantly states that a developed rind (as you see in the photos above) is a flaw! But most, myself included, crave a Caerphilly with three luscious levels of taste and texture, like you see in the Duckett’s above. First, the velvety multi-flora rind; then the outer, softening layer of smoother, stronger cheese; and finally a crumbly, acidic, mild center. Caerphilly is classed as a “British Crumbly” along with Cheshire, Lancashire, and Wensleydale. 

You cheesemakers out there might already be guessing that this cheese has a variety of final pH values, right? Right! The outside pH will have gone up, the softened inner portion, too, although not as high as the rind, and the center will likely be at the same final pH as when the curd was salted. To get this to happen is a two part, no make that three part, deal. First the make to get the curds at just the right moisture content, then hooping must create a cheese that has the right ratio of height to width. If it’s too tall, then ripening won’t be even. And then the environment must favor the molds that grow on the surface. 

As always, I encourage cheesemakers to try for a style, but know that their milk and environment might preclude duplication! 

A few shots from our visit to Wales. The exterior of Caerphilly Castle, just north of Cardiff in the South of Wales. The inside of this large castle was amazing! Many parts have been restored. I was braced for a Stark or Lannister to storm the place.